Kilts, Kith & Kin: Sleeping in a Cow Byre in Great Strickland, England

Tuesday, November 1, 2016 ~ by Amy

The Little Byre ~ Great Strickland, England

Once we had navigated the narrow country roads near Longhorsley, we headed straight south, running parallel to the east coast of England. As we neared Newcastle-upon-Tyne, we were to have turned inland, but we felt that the GPS was leading us wrong and taking us through the city. We defied it and continued on the loop taking us around the downtown. Unfortunately, we also missed our road west so ended up taking a much longer route, looping around the North Pennines and between two national parks. The scenery was spectacular. Verdant, rolling pastures were dotted with sheep and bordered with miles of stone walls.

The roads we took were main highways, usually two lanes going each direction. We apparently passed a military base at some point as there were signs for tank crossings.

Late afternoon we passed a large organic farm shop and cafe. Knowing we needed to pick up some milk for breakfast, we found a service road between the east and westbound lanes and went back. It was an interesting, though rather expensive place with very local food items. So local, that their were sheep grazing on the roof!

We had seen these odd looking, four horned sheep on occasion. Later I learned that they are a rare breed called Jacob sheep. We found them fascinating but somewhat disturbing. Their added horns gave them a somewhat devilish appearance. Poor sheep, it's not like they could help it.

As the sun began its early descent, the landscape became first highlighted with slanting light, then tinged with gold, followed by a bright rose hue. Taking pictures through the car window isn't the best but when I couldn't pull over, I insisted that Alyssa just snap away. I felt that our route was God-ordained as the peaceful scenery surrounded our car.

As the sun began to set the clouds formed interesting silhouettes above us.

When I first arranged our stay in Great Strickland, our hosts, Ian and Ruth, were visiting Greece. But on their return, Ian gave me detailed directions on how to navigate the local roads. He even made the effort to take pictures of key intersections and drew a detailed map.

Country lane between stone walls

We had no problem finding The Little Byre, thanks to Ian's great directions. Since we had no way to contact them on our journey, only Ruth was there to welcome us. During our walk through of the house, we found everything to be cozy and clean. Best of all, Ruth had the heat on!

Cozy living area

Drop-down "murphy bed", imported from the US

Well equipped kitchen with hardwood counters

Ruth told us that the Strickland Arms served a delicious, homestyle supper but didn't open until 6:00. We thought that was odd but took her word for it. It was fully dark and very chilly out by that time so we were well bundled up for our walk down the street. The sky was black and velvety and filled with stars like we never see at home with the glow of Portland nearby. Here in Great Strickland, there was no city nearby and only one small streetlight for the whole village. By day the Strickland Arms isn't much to look at but at night we could see the welcoming light shining through the windows.

Strickland Arms

We discovered that Ruth was incorrect about the opening time as the sign stated 5:00 and the front bar room was filled with curious regulars. We sat there at a table for a bit but when we didn't get service, I poked my head into what was labeled dining room. An elderly man sat at a table rolling silverware into napkins. I asked him if it was okay if we sat in the dining room. He replied cheekily, "As long as one of you isn't a dog. Dogs have to stay in the bar." I thought he was joking but when I went to get Alyssa, we saw that there were indeed dogs snoozing under the tables in the bar. No one else ever joined us in the dining room and the server never came so I went back to the bar and asked if we'd be served there. The bartender/waitress said we would, but service remained pretty much nonexistent, causing us to wish we'd just stayed in the front room. The menu was big and varied though, and the food was excellent. Alyssa got a pizza and I ordered a traditional lamb and ale pie.

Lamb and ale pie

We walked back under the stars, using Alyssa's cell phone flashlight as needed to avoid running into anything or tripping on the broken sidewalk.

In the morning we enjoyed our cereal before packing up. Then before heading out, we walked around and took some pictures since we had arrived in the dark.

Late autumn flowers

The Little Byre ~ the outside of the structure is mostly original but the inside was completely remodeled

Flower pots on our host's back steps

Driveway into the farmyard and the Little Byre

We reversed Ian's directions and headed out of the village. On the edge of town we stopped briefly at the St Barnabas Church. The gate was locked so we couldn't go in.